Articles:

The salsa Veracruzana that Dávila tasted during summer visits to Casitas is reimagined here as gremolata spooned over crisp fried sweetbreads.

In a large measuring cup or bowl, whisk 4 cups of the sake with the soy sauce, mirin, vinegar, chopped ginger and garlic.Divide the marinade between the two bags; press out the air and seal the bags.

Turn to coat the chickens thoroughly.Refrigerate the chickens for 24 hours.. meanwhile, make the dipping sauce.In a medium bowl, combine the sake, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, garlic, scallions and ginger.

Season with the hot sesame oil.. Set a steamer rack inside a pot large enough to hold the chickens.Add 6 cups of water to the pot along with the sliced ginger, chopped onion and remaining 2 cups of sake.

Carefully set the chickens on the rack, cover and steam until cooked through, 60 to 70 minutes.

Transfer the chickens to a cutting board or a platter and let rest for 20 minutes..1 teaspoon mustard seeds.

1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds.1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns.

1/8 teaspoon asafetida (see Note).15 fresh curry leaves.